During British rule, Kolkata was considered the world’s most fashionable city after London
TORONTO: When I was a university student, I read Dominique Lapierre’s novel, City of Joy. Set in Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), the story is about the challenging lives of a Polish priest, a young American physician and a local rickshaw puller. Although the story is fiction, it was inspired by real stories the French author encountered during his travels in India, especially Kolkata, and it gave the city its nickname.
This book would change the course of my life because not only would it spark my interest in India – in the culture, history and food — it planted a seed to travel and see the world. Although it would be some 30 years later when I finally got to visit the City of Joy, once I did, I was enthralled.
As India’s cultural capital and the country’s second largest city, Kolkata is filled with lovely gardens, grand architecture and historical colleges. For generations, it has inspired writers, artists and intellects, and is known for its gastronomy, especially fish dishes.
Here are my top favourite attractions that Kolkata offers and are not to miss:
Heritage Zone Walking Tour: spend a morning on a guided walking tour of the European area with its magnificent colonial architecture, including: the site of the “Black Hole,” the Calcutta High Court, Town Hall, Governor’s House, General Post Office, the famous Writers’ Building, the former headquarters of the East India Company. You will be transported back to the 18th and 19th centuries during British rule when, after London, Kolkata was considered the world’s most fashionable city.
Mullik Ghat Flower Market: along the Hooghly river and near the famous Howrah Bridge is the colourful 130-year-old flower market, which is the largest in east India. Approximately 3,000 flower growers sell their goods. Garlands of marigolds, and bright yellow and orange hibiscus flowers are sold in stalls, with sellers carrying loads in their arms, on their bodies, piled on their heads, and some look like they are wearing dresses of flowers. Mounds of flowers are piled on the ground, as men and women sit and string flowers. Locals wash in the river, and during the mornings professional wrestlers can be seen practicing nearby. There is no refrigeration, so whatever flowers are not sold during the day end up discarded.
Kumortuli Potters’ Colony: an enclave of artists who produce clay statues or idols of Hindu gods and goddesses that are used in religious ceremonies and festivals. In the past, families invited artisans into their homes before a festival or religious ceremony, while the family watched the creation. Today, they are created and sold here, and even exported all over the world.
Victoria Memorial Hall: a monument to colonialism in memory of Queen Victoria, Empress of India. Built in the early 20th century by Sir William Emerson, it is stunning Indo-gothic architecture with Mughal elements, filled with Victorian memorabilia, British Raj paintings and more, and surrounded by lovely green space.
Calcutta Coffee House: a popular landmark located in the University of Calcutta area, the heart of the literary world with bookstalls lining both sides of College Street. Here publishers sell modern and rare books. The Coffee House of Calcutta has been the meeting place for intellectuals for years, and was once considered the gateway to the freedom of creative expression. Sit over a cup of coffee and people-watch.
Mother Teresa’s Ashram: visit Mother Teresa’s home and “Sishu Bhawan”- orphanage for homeless children. Inside the centre is a museum dedicated to the life of this extraordinary humanitarian, which includes photographs, journals and personal items, and you can view her tomb and peek into the tiny room she lived in.
Marble Palace: a palatial mansion built in 1835 of Italian marble by one of the wealthiest landlords of Bengal, Raja Rajendra Mullick Bahadur. It has a room decorated with beautiful, massive mirrors, and artworks from Ruben, Reynolds and others. A lush green lawn has statues of Hindu Gods and other figures.
And what is the place to stay in the City of Joy?
Peerless Inn is one of the finest hotels located at Chowringhee in the heart of the city, close to both shopping and business areas. It is walking distance to the metro station, Eden Gardens and New Market. Its Oceanic restaurant serves a huge variety of dishes, and the staff are friendly and helpful.
For this trip, I have to thank Delhi-based Vasco Travel for making arrangements for accommodation, transport and guides, and India Tourism for air travel. (This article first appeared here on January 1, 2020)
(Shannon Skinner is an award-winning author, radio host, travel writer and international speaker. More information at ShannonSkinner.com. Tweet @Shannon_Skinner)
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